Your Contribution is appreciated...Use the Paypal link below

You can donate in two ways. First, by using the Paypal link above. Or, you may send a check or money order made out to the Swain County Public Schools Foundation. All proceeds will go to the Swain County Public Schools Foundation no matter which way you choose to donate. The Swain County Public Schools Foundation is a non profit, 501(c)3, tax deductible foundation. You may make your check payable to "Swain County Public Schools Foundation", send it to this address
155 West Ridge Dr. Bryson City, NC 28713
and the Foundation can send you a receipt. Thank you very much.

Monday, April 5, 2010

Wrapping a few things up

The boat has been sent back to Clipper with a big thanks...the gear, well most of it, has been put away and the memories of long, hot days are being thought of with more fondness than the reality. The project has wound down into a remnant of the force it once was. It's difficult to believe that the energy and constant thought that went into seeing this project through has slowed to less than a trickle. While the energy on my end has slowed, the need to scholarship support still stands. Remember that donations are still very much appreciated and tax deductible.
Over the last month, I've had the opportunity to visit a couple of the civic groups that showed their support to me and the project. The Rotary Club of Bryson City invited me to breakfast and to tell the story of the paddling portion of the project. I had visited with them about a year ago where they welcomed me with enthusiasm and warmth. At that time, I was able to talk about creating the idea and my desire to do 2 things with it. First, to tell the story of my dad. It's not often we get to do that to a large group of people. Father, teacher and pilot were just a few of his personas and it was a pleasure to talk about these in terms of his service to family, community and country. When the subject matter is such a positive force, it's easy to tell the story.
The second purpose was to raise scholarship funds for our local students in my dad's name. Again, an easy decision for me and for many to support. For that I was grateful to all who supported.
The actual paddling trip from western NC to the Gulf in Alabama was a way to generate interest and spread the word to as many people as possible. It did it and more. In all it was a great promotional vehicle...sorry for the pun...to accomplish the projects purposes. After the trip, many asked if I had fun. I can't say I actually had fun, though parts were enjoyable and all of it went well beyond worthwhile.
Anyway, back to the Rotary Club breakfast. This time the speaking was much easier. The emotion of talking about my dad and the project's purposes was eased. I only touched on it and was able to tell a much easier story. The story of the paddling advenure and showing my appreciation. I've told countless paddling stories over the years, but mostly to other paddlers. This time, it was fun to talk about the specifics of how to do a trip like this. Where to sleep...what to eat...who I saw...and what I saw told the story of the trip. Great questions that really made me realize all that I've already forgetten. So, once again, thanks Rotary for the welcome and opportunity to do a little show and tell.
Later that same week, I spoke with the Bryson City Womens Club. A small group of about 10 of the nicest women you will ever meet. Just like Rotary, I had spoken to them before the trip so this time it was another slide show and stroy telling session. For many, just the camping for a month was beyond their experience. Add the idea of traveling from western NC to southern AL and it is a fascinating and frightening thought for them. My telling of the positive experience and personal stories of the trip surprised them I think. Story telling is something I enjoy, but I'm much more factual than a good story teller probably should be. Now, my wife...she's a good story teller, but thats another story.
So, the process has wound down toward the end. I always enjoyed the process as this idea came to fruition. I never thought it wouldn't happen and never thought I wouldn't get somewhere. At times, where it was going was in question, but mainly due to my wife's willingness and understanding I was able to step away for a month; an opportunity not shared by many. With that, the last people I would like to say thank you to are my wife and family. The last thing I would like to leave the rest of you with are a few of my favorite photos of the trip. I might try to post the slideshow presentation at some point, but for now, enjoy these.







Friday, August 7, 2009

Sell the boat, or send it back to Clipper with a Thank You














It's time to say goodbye to a friend. My boat for this great project has to go back to it's owner, or find a new one. I spoke to Clipper President, Marvin Bayes, yesterday about the Sea-1 I used for the trip. They truly stepped up and helped the project become a reality. Without their support and sponsorship, it might not have happened. For that, I'm grateful, but I do wish I could keep it.

Now, my options are I can either send it back, or buy it,or sell it. So, for the next month, I'll try to sell it. If it doesn't sell, I'll ship it back to Clipper.

Retail price for the Sea-1 (See Clipper - Sea-1 Specs here) is $2954 US. Add another $400 for the price for the skirt and total retail comes to $3354. Shipping to NC cost me around $360. In total, to get the boat here to NC costs $3684. In speaking with the Pres of Clipper, Mr. Bayes, he is asking $2799 for the boat and skirt. I'm asking....$2,600. The price will save you cost of shipping and the skirt. So, HUGE SAVINGS for who ever steps up.

Clipper has one mold for the Sea-1 and they make about 1 boat per month. If your looking to buy one, it may take several months to get yours so this will also save you the wait time.

If you looking for a high performance, solo expedition boat, I don't think there is a better one out there. According to Clipper Pres, Marvin, the Sea-1 took top honors at the Yukon 360 and has shown it's performance value at many other ultra marathon races and events. For me, the boat was unbelievably comfortable and fast. Sitting in it for 10-16 hours for 28 days was no problem. Packing everything I needed, including food and water...again, no problem.

Here's a link to another owner review and comparison. He also owns the similar boat by Kruger and has a great comparison of them side by side. He has raced in the Yukon race and gives a very detailed run-down and review of both boats.
http://teambumbazer.com/bumming/seawindvssea1.html

The boat is in great condition still. Looks great too. It does have some scratches and dings, but after 1,000 miles, it still looks great. Take a look at the pics and if your interested, drop me an email. (wrhester(at)gmail.com) We can talk on the phone after that and I'll answer any questions you have.
Again, I'm selling it so I don't have to ship it. If it doesn't sell, I'll send it back with a thank you. If I could keep it, I would.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Many Thanks...Where to Now?


Slowly I've been re-emerging and re-energizing over the last week. Mainly, I've been enjoying spending time with my family and friends, but I'm also really glad for the cooler mountain climate. Tomorrow, we leave for Belize to spend some time exploring of a different sort. The kids and Susan are looking forward to their adventure and for me, I'll go where ever they decide. I'll just be appreciate being there.

On the project front, a week to reflect hasn't defined where to go next, or even provided enough time to put it into perspective. In light of that, I would like to thank so folks for making this project a success. I know I've said this before, but the project had 2 main goals. One...to tell the story of my father and his service to family, community and country. Two...to raise funds in his name for our Swain County Schools Foundation. On both accounts, we have been successful. I was a watching Michael J Fox show titled, "The Adventures of an Incurable Optimist." I had to say I could relate to much of what the show was about, but one quote MJF gave really struck me as relevant and true. The quote is, "Do the next right thing." That's very different than doing the next thing right. In light of this project, doing the next right thing was the guiding principle in directing me. The goals just helped define what that was. At times, trying to do the next thing right didn't always work out, but as long as I kept trying to do the next thing right, it worked.
To that end, I have all of you who are reading this to thank. First, my wife and family, who supported and allowed me the freedom to keep moving forward with love and encouragement.
My sponsors, who, again, without their support, I would not have been able to have the absolutely right equipment to do this. The Nantahala Outdoor Center is first on that list of supporters. The first company to throw their support for the project and one that is part of the community that it benefits. I thank you for your unquestioned support for me, the project and the community.
Clipper Canoes, I can't thank enough. The Sea-1 was everything I needed and more in a high performance, expedition canoe. If anyone is planning on an extended trip and needs comfort, speed, ease of packing and access, as well as a boat that is pure pleasure to paddle, the Sea-1 is my first recommendation.
Bending Branches...wow! What can I say about your performance paddles. Your Sunburst XL 14 Carbon shaft and beautiful wood blade took all the stress I could give. Pushing off rocks on the Tenn-Tomm, knocking branches out of my way, banging on the boat countless times and not hardly a nick to be seen. It looks just like new still. Not only that, but at 17 oz, I never tired of paddling with it. I'm glad for the chance to represent you guys, appreciate the opportunity and will look forward to paddling anything you make. Thank you.
Northwest River Supply (NRS), who provided a much needed dry duffel, as well as some clothing and other equipment...thank you. The water tight, zip duffel was perfect for the boat. Well made, dry and easy top opening made the morning packing a breeze. TEVA, thanks for the foot support with the most comfortable sandal I've ever worn. Extreme support of their products and customer service make you guys top notch.
Astral Bouyancy and their V-8 jacket gave comfort and peace throughout the trip. Crossing large, wind swept lakes and locking through countless times were done with comfort and style. Even in the hot weather, it didn't make any difference to me since it allowed ample venting and never felt like wearing it made it hotter. I didn't even notice when I wore it.
Hawk Vittles was a great add on sponsor. Hawk, a chef by trade, applies his trade to great dehydrated meals that I look forward to every meal. A night, or morning, when I ate Hawk Vittles was always a thing to look forward to.
Lastly, I need to thank all of you who followed, donated, supported, watched, helped, assisted, cheered and got excited with me. My friends from Bryson City, NC to those in New Iberia, LA deserve a large thanks. Knowing I had your support, meant the world to me. The project was really about connecting communities to do something good. Your support went a long way toward great. Also, all my paddling friends from New Iberia to Bryson City and to those who have moved on to other parts beyond, it was especially great to have your support along the way. Old friends are always there and the re-connections made through this endeavor were special. I also made some new friends who lent their support and encouragement. Friends from throughout the trip and some from before it even started let me know of their support through email and facebook. Friends from Streamwood IL, Cottonport TN, Harrison Bay State Park, Chattanooga, Cleveland MS, Columbus AL, Hattiesburg MS, Decatur AL, and the many marinas where I was met with incredulity and friendship all deserve a salute. Your hospitality and assistance were beyond appreciated.
In closing, I want to say the project isn't over. The scholarship funds we've raised amount to a drop in the bucket. Its approximately $6,000 in donations and pledges. I'd like to continue doing something that brings the paddling communities together to support scholarships for our community. I've met a tremendous number of paddlers and friends through my time at NOC. Many have lived here, or lived here for many years. The success of a community, in my opinion is based on the diverse talents, contributions and willingness of all of it's members. Over the last 30 years of living here, I been a witness to the many diverse talents and contributions of our fair community. It can only get better through investment in it's future.
If you haven't contributed, please consider doing so. It doesn't take much, if we have many. To those who have contributed, thank you. Your generosity continues to astound me. Thank you.

Friday, July 10, 2009

Dodgin Gators and Eatin Fish














The sun rose on Bobby's Fish Camp this morning and I didn't even see it. First time for that in the last 30 days. Yes, I'm here at the finish. No big emotions, no shout from the water as I took my last stroke; just a quiet satisfaction of accomplishment. It did feel good to know that tomorrow morning I wasn't going to get up at 4:30 and paddle again. A great trip for sure, and a trip with many things I'll remember with fond memories and great stories. Before I go on, I want to relay the events of the last 3 days.
I left Demopolis with a changed game plan. Instead of Mobile, the end will be at Bobby's Landing at Bobby's Fish Camp. Bobby's Fish Camp is the most famous fish eating place in the southeast...bar none. There is another one though. Ezell's is about 50 miles up river from Bobby's, but I only heard of Ezell's when I crossed into Alabama. I've been hearing of Bobby's from Tennessee. Since this trip has had it's food theme, I'll have to judge for myself.
The morning I left, skies were grey and the air humid. Sticky and muggy I left at my usual time with Demopolis locks a couple miles down river. I reached the lock just before sun up and had to wait for a barge to lock through going upstream. As the sun rose I thought of the 100 miles I had left and wondered what I would see on this final leg. The barge passed and in I went. Quickly locking through, the waters on the otherside were flowing through the dam on the west side creating a river with ledges and actual whitewater. Joining the main river a few hundred yards below, I could see white herons and mists rising from the ledges and waves. It seemed incongruous with the surroundings, but beautiful. I headed on downstream after few photos.
The day went by quickly and my pace was easy. I paddled with the idea of doing 25 miles a day until I reached Booby's on Friday. However, the day was cooler, even if a bit muggy so when I reached the 25 mile point, I went a little farther, stopping at around 29 miles. I stopped at a big sandy beach and set up camp. A great day for wildlife, including a couple more bald eagles, some wild hogs, a couple coyotes loping along the far bank and an Ibis. The bald eagles included an adolecent which I originally took for a hawk of some sort. It was circling around and landed in a tree just in front of me. When it landed I took out the camera and snapped a shot. When I looked at the photo, I saw a mature eagle sitting next to it. I hadn't seen that until I snapped a shot. It was then I realized what it was. Cool! The coyotes were another surprise. I don't like coyotes much, ever since our dog was bitten by one, but in this setting, they were beautiful creatures. I was wondering where the roadrunner was as I watched them sniffing and searching along the sandy bluff.
The next day the sun reappeared with a vengeance. I saw more barges and tugs plying their cargo and a couple pleasure cruisers as well. Other than that, there isn't much on this section below Demopolis. a couple miles above the state hwy 10 bridge I saw my first gator.
In the heat of the day I usually paddle along the shore and catch as much shade as possible. It's difficult during the middle of the day to find shade so I paddle even closer to shore and zigzag in and out of the shade offered. It was about 1 pm and hot. I had just taken a rest stop and napped for about 20 minutes so feeling a bit refreshed, I set off at a cruising pace. I was feeling pretty good and my thoughts were on the audio book I was listening too (Eldest). I rounded a bend when out of the shadows of the shade I see a huge gator scrambling to get in the water. Shiny and black as night, it was glistening as it started to slide into the water toward me from about 15 yards away. Yikes! I couldn't get the camera out and really didn't want to, so I backpaddled quickly. Wow! That thing had to be 10 -12 feet long. It's middle was as wide as my boat...or wider. The size surprised me and made me reassess my paddling strategy a bit. I wasn't in any real danger, but if it was 5 yrds closer and I hadn't seen it as soon as I did...hmmmm. I paddled out into deeper water and continued on down. Big gator!
Another hour and I crossed under the bridge and reached a building along the west bank. Ezell's Fish Camp. Lunch time!
A great, old building that you could see had history written all over it. Evidently the restaraunt was about 55 yrs old with several additions to the original building. I tied up nearby and walked the coulple hundred yards up to the building. The original part was log cabin construction. The manager there said it was over 200 yrs old and used to be a trading post for the Choctaw indians and traders in the area. The parking lot was full...good sign. I went in and drank some sweet tea while I figured out what I wanted. Old pictures lined the walls and the eating area overlooking the river was obviously an old back porch that used to be screened in. The photos showed the catfish operation from the 50's. Baskets of catfish being cleaned and fish traps made of wooden crates with wooden stays used for the traps. The upper part of the walls were adorned with deer antler trophies and large catfish and bass mounted. The food was ok. It wasn't as freshly cooked as I had hoped. It had probably been left over from the last of the lunch crowd. Now, it was still good...very good, but just not as good as my expectations. I love catfish and still ate it with relish.
I hung out there for the next couple hours. The sweet tea and ceiling fans were a little better than the heat of the sun and hard to leave.
Finally, around 4:30 I headed off. I only had 5 - 10 miles to go and enjoyed the afternoon. A small shower around 5:30 cooled things off and I found a camping spot for the night.
The camping spot turned out to be my last. I had paddled 32 miles and only had about 35 to go the next day. It also turned out to be one of the best spots of the entire trip. I small, smooth rocky/clay bank lined the west side. Gently sloping to the water it gave me a place to easily pull the boat up, but even better it had a few mushroom like outcroppings. These outcroppings were of harder rock that sat up like mushrooms out of the hard clay. When the clay washed away, these rocks sat like the cap of the mushroom. Flat on top, the largest made for a wonderful tent platform and overlooked the river. The one next to it, made a comfortable kitchen. It was a nice change from the sandy beach of the night before.
The next morning I left a little later, at about 5:30. Still dark and thinking of gators, I stayed out in the middle of the river, not wanting to surprise anything in the dark. A full moon lit my way and the cooler temps let me make some miles. By 10 am Ihad put in about 14 miles. I thought about this being my last day, but like all the other days, I didn't think too long about that. I still had work to do and things to see along the way. Gators were seen more often for sure. Many from far away, but as the day grew warmer, I had to paddle closer to shore, warily for sure.
I was surprised again and this time was a little too close for comfort. Again, rounding a bend I suddenly heard and saw a huge commotion to my right. I quickly slammed on the breaks and saw a wake heading for me. The water was still frothing and churning as I turned 90 degrees to deeper water and watched as the wake was still heading to me. Taking a few quick strokes more, the water started churning along the bank with spray going everywhere. Finally, the waves died down and I stopped to get my breath. I never saw the gator, or gators. I must have been a pretty good size gator due to all the water flying everywhere. What I think happened was I spooked the gator and it immediately dove into the shallow water toward me to escape. It either escaped under me in the deeper water, or turned back when it saw me. The commotion near shore could have been it, once it turned, trying to fight its way over the branches and limbs of the downed trees along the bank. Or, there were 2 of them. The first going under me into deeper water, and the second fighting its way along the bank and over/under the branches. Either way, at least on of them was probably pretty good size and did surprise me as much as it was surprised by me. Again, time to rethink my gator strategy. I moved farther away and kept a sharp lookout the rest of the day.
I did manage one more gator encounter, but I saw it from about 15 yards away. It was hanging out in the water in front of me. I see lots of logs and have to check them all out as I approach. This one wasn't a log and had the definite eyes and snout sillouette. I stopped at the same time it saw me. It sank out of sight and I gave it a wide berth as I passed. No problems.
Finally, after a long day, I pulled into Bobby's Landing at around 6:30. Glad to be done with the days paddling and smiling. So, who has the better catfish? Well, Bobby's does :). In one last act of kindness, I was invited to eat with a couple boat cruiser couples. We enjoyed eating, talking and sharing river experiences over the course of devouring Bobby's delectible food. In the end, when I got up to pay for the meal, the owner of Bobby's told me one of the cruisers payed for everyone's meal. What a great way to end the journey! I don't even know who it was since they had all headed to their boats and lights were out. Thank you whoever it was.
Oh, and early on, I had given a math problem to solve. I did get an answer on the comments section from Robby0 I think. How many strokes a day? 27,000 on the average. Working it out to how many strokes for the trip I get 756,000 strokes. So, 760,000 strokes later...I'm done. Not bad.
At the moment, I'm waiting for Susan and the kids to come get me. They are somewhere near Birmingham right now. Looking forward to seeing them for sure.
I'm not really ready to write any conclusions or give any hindsight about the trip. That will come when I get home. Suffice it to say, I'm glad to be finished and incredibly satisfied with the trip. I've truly enjoyed writing about the adventures, surprised at the people I've met along the way and incredibly appreciative of the friends from all parts of my life that have joined me in support of this project. I know that my dad was following along, much like he did when I was younger. Throughout our lives, we both enjoyed telling and listening to each others adventures and experiences and this trip was just another aspect of that.
Thanks to all who prayed, commented, encouraged and sent good thoughts. They really did make a huge difference, especially on some of those hot, miserable days. My appreciation for all of your support is immeasureable.
I'll post more soon. Until then, enjoy the pics from the last 3 days.

Monday, July 6, 2009

Happy 4th






Hope everyone had a great 4th. Missed the fireworks in BC , but did manage to at least hear some going off around me as I camped by the river.
The day went by quietly for the most part. The difference was in the scenery. The grey, clay bluffs gave way to long sandy beaches interspersed with reddish banks lining the sides of the river. Later on, near the town of Eppes, the grey bluffs gave way to big, white cliffs, locally called the "White Cliffs if Eppes" for obvious reasons. Tugs and barges passed more often with all of them heading upstream. The weather for the day was pretty much the same with temps in the low to mid 90's and a light wind every once in awhile. Did manage to see 4 bald eagles and several hawks. Overall a nice day. Reached the 32 mile mark and found a small sandy beach to camp for the night. Dinner of one of my last Hawk Vittles and coffee had me settling into my tent for the evening as the light of day faded.
I had to be in my tent before dark. The mosquitos come out in hordes as soon as the the sun sets. Looking out the netting of the tent, 1000's of them are swirling outside. You can hear the combined buzz as these little vampires hungrily await any opening.
I awakened to the sound of a tug disappearing up river and light dawning down river. Looked at my watch and saw it was 5:10. A little later than usual, but I was dead tired last night and probably needed the sleep. I felt rested and ready so I put the water on for coffee and packed the tent. Once coffee was ready I looked at my watch to see what time I was launching. Oh my, I did it again. It wasn't 5:10 when I woke up....it was 2:25. That light dawning down river wasn't the sun, but the full moon through the trees as it was setting. It was now 3 am. I had a choice. Set the tent back up and get some more sleep, or head on down. I chose to head on down. Cooler weather and a full moon to light the way wasn't hard to resist. That means I would get to Demopolis early as well. So, off I went.
Yesterday, or yestermorning was a good paddle for the first 14 miles. At that point my arms felt heavy and my eye's were droopy. I took a short nap at around 8 am and managed to get about 20 minutes in before a big cruiser was heard coming up stream. This one must not have seen me because he didn't even slow down. He was pushing a huge bow wave and the wake off his stern was throwing 3 foot waves behind him. Uh oh. I turned so i could hit his wake at a 90 degree angle. My bow rose up the first wave and plunged down into the second. Slicing through the 2nd wave, water poured over my bow and splashed over me. It felt like I was on a big western river and paddling through a big wave train. I was soaked, but all was fine. Thought about radioing him, but just sponged the water out of the boat and kept going.
I arrived at Demopolis at around 11 am. The marina there has a small restaraunt and small motel. For $44 bucks I got a room. It was an easy decision. After a burger at the restaraunt I headed back to the room for a long nap.
The weather report called for lots of severe weather for that evening and all day on Monday. Hmmmmm. Lots of big thunderstorms with high winds was not what I was looking for. I don't mind paddling in the rain, but big thunderstorms are a bit scary. Looking at the forecast I have a couple options. Tuesday, the threat of thunderstorms lessens with only scattered, afternoon storms forecast. I could tough it out, paddle on, and see what Monday brings. I could also hang out and see what other landings/end points are available. I decided to sleep on it and see what the weather was like in the morning.
I awoke at my usual time...4:30. When I looked outside, it was pouring wiith lightning in the distance. Needless to say, I went back to sleep. I woke up at dawn and it was still raining hard. That set my decision to hang out and find out where I can take out above Mobile.
There is nothing above Mobile for a ways. Coffeeville is the closest place for Susan to pick me up and have a chance to actually find it. There are several small landings, but I wanted a place that Susan won't have to wonder if it's the place. Having no cell phone service, it wouldn't be easy for us to connect and find each other. So, Coffeeville will be the end. The Corp of Engineers has a boat ramp at the lake above Coffeeville Lock and Dam and there is a great little restaruant and cabins on the river called Bobby's Fish Camp. It's a place the kids might enjoy too.
So, I'm good with the plan. As I said before, I'm not setting any records, or am I the first one to do this. The purpose of this trip is to help promote the scholarship effort and tell the story of my dad. Personally, I'm feel very comfortable with the paddling effort and accomplishment. No regrets on any accounts.
I'll enjoy the last 100 miles and hope that the scattered thundershowers aren't too bad. I've been putting in big miles so slowing down and enjoying the day with out working quite as hard will be enjoyable. I look forward to that. Not sure what day I'll end and will talk with Susan this afternoon to work that out. Right now, Friday is looking like a possibility.
If I'm able to, I'll post again. If not, I'll wait until I finish. As usual, thanks to all for your support. I've enjoyed the writing much more than I thought I would.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Attack of the Killer Beaver




It didn't really attack, but it might as well have. As your know, I get up early and on the water when it's still dark. Yesterday morning was no different. The cove I had pulled into was near the dam and lock, but as I pulled out that morning, headlamp turned on, I couldn't see much. The fog was drifting across the water and truthfully, all I was thinking about was gators and was I in the channel leading out of the cove. By the way, no gators yet and everyone I talk to hasn't ever seen one,but swear they are here. Anyway, as I paddle out virtually blinded I see something pop out of the darkness not 3 feet off to the left and just in front of me. Wham, it hits by boat and makes a huge splash. My first thought as I saw it was gator, but as it came along side my bow, I saw it was a beaver. After the little girl yelp escaped my mouth, and I looked around to see if any heard, I waited until my heart slowed a bit before paddling on. Nice way to start a day.
The day went well with happy paddling in the morning and bearable heat in the afternoon while I ducked in and out of the shade along the banks. The best part was at about 26 miles into the day. It was late afternoon and I had slowed considerably due to the heat. I hadn't seen many people all day, but fisherman anb families out in their boats. A few docks scattered along the banks as well. I had come on a group of nice houses with boat docks and could tell people were starting to get ready for the 4th. After a mile or so, I happened upon a group sitting on their dock obviously having a nice time. As I paddled near, they yelled for me to come over.
I ended up spending the next few hours with them. A big group of friends, family and kids, they immediately made me feel welcome and comfortable. Cold water and conversation while I told them about the trip and I learned about them. Reminded me of my youth when we would get together with aunt and uncles, cousins and the rest for summer outings at the lake in Lake Charles. Water skiing and eating with lots of story telling. Turns out they have about 200 lbs of crawfish for the 4th. I think I was a day too early! One of the brothers, Todd, is a crawfish supplier and has the wholoe setup to do it right. His brother James and a friend Norman made me feel like I knew them all my life. I was offered a place and shower,but sadly, I still had about 8 miles to go. With lots of picture taking, a couple sandwiches (killer chioken sald) and a couple gifts of t-shirts and a platter for crawfish with logo and all, I paddled on. Remember these folks if you pass through Cleveland MS. I know if given the chance, i'll stop in to say hello.
Today, I found a place with connection so wanted to eat lunch and write a little.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Bonked










First, just to let everyone know that my connection from here on out will be sporadic, if at all. I think I'll be able to connect somewhere, but I'm just not sure where. So, if you don't see a post for a couple days, don't worry. My wife Susan says she'll give me 2 days, but if she hadn't heard from my by the 3rd day, she's sending someone after me. Seriously, no worries, it's just Verizon doesn't have great service south of here. Not sure anyone will, but keeping my fingers crossed.
Second thing before I write about the last couple days. Previously I mentioned that Tuesday was a smooth day with the locks, and it was, sort of. Looking back, there are a couple little stories I had wanted to relate. Yes, the first lock was a breeze. I called about 15 minutes out. The lockmaster opened the doors and in I went. Smooth.
The second lock had a little wait while I waited for a barge to clear. All the locks have 2 walls on either side, a long wall and a short wall. The lockmaster asked me to wait outside the long wall while the barge/tug cleared. No problem. I just tied off on a small piece of pipe and waited. About 5 minutes later I hear the big diesel motors of the tug crank up and the swoosh of the barge starting to move through. At this point, I'm thinking this is pretty cool. The sounds are loud and powerful. I can feel the vibration of the motors and ships through the 6 foot thick concrete wall. Powerful forces in action here. Well, I'm sitting there in awe when all of sudden "WHAM"!! The sound is even with me on the other side of the wall. The barge is banging along the wall. Again, "WHAM"! At this point, cool changed to uh oh. I look up at the wall I'm tied to and actually see the wall move as the barge slams into it. Needless to say, I untie and back off. I hear over the radio, the lockmaster talking to the tug telling him that there's a akayak tucked behind the wall and out of the way. Believe me, I'm out of the way a lot farther than I was. No problem. As I peer around the corner of the wall, I see the tug, pushing the barges sideways out into the channel. Whether it was wind, or current, the tug was trying to get them turned back and seemingly started the turn a little too early. The power was incredible. A littel sidenote - yesterday, I was at the marina and struck up a conversation with a tug operator. He told me that a full barge weighs in at 15,000 tons. Unbelievable!
The last lock of the day was smooth too, but required a little extra work to make it so. I was tired and had covered about 25 miles to this point. I radiod the lock to tell them I was 15 to 20 minutes out. He comes back with "can't you get here any sooner?" I stared at the radio alittle perturbed. I told him I was in a kayak and he could probably get a visual on me from where he was. The lock was in sight, but a little over a mile away. He comes back and says, "well, I'll go ahead and drop the pool, I've got a barge coming up river and once I get him through we'll get you down." "NOOO", I thought. I quickly radiod back, I can hurry it up if you'll wait...please. Gratefully, he said he'd hold em open if I could hurry. Man, I took off. Looked at my watch and made it to the lock at 11 minutes. At any moment II was pulling at close to 5 mph, after a long day already, but made it. I think I must be getting into a little bit of paddling shape now.
Ok, back to the present. Actually yesterday and the Bonk. So far the days have been pretty much the same. I leave early and paddle moderately hard until the afternoon. If I can make 20 miles at around noon, I'm feeling pretty good. Later, I'll either find a spot to rest while the suns at it's height,or cruise the best I can at a slower pace and take smaller stops. I've felt pretty good energy wise through out the trip. No dehydration issues. No food issues. I've been thirsty and hungry, but nothing to where the body just stops. Until yesterday. Yesterday I bonked. I was a little strange too. I started out having a great morning of paddling easily and making decent time. The shoreline was interesting and the morning cooler than ithad been. I was passing near Columbus, MS and the Air Force base there. What looked like some T-38's with some flight school pilots were flying around. My dad flew T-38's during his flight training days and it made me think about him. Actually growing up on AF bases, the sound was very familiar, but I was never good a telling what kindof planes were flying around. Anyway, a good day all around.
About 11 am, I was starting to get hungry so I ate some gorp. Its a staple I eat throughout the day. I drank some water with it and started to go again. Well, I was still hungry so I stopped and made some ham salad and ate it on a couple tortillas. At that point, I lost all energy and started feeling very weak. I couldn't have gone further if I wanted to. Thankfully, I found a good, shady spot with trees overhanging, a nice gravel beach and a coolingbreeze blowing through. I slept for close to 2 hours. I woke up, ate alittle more and drank some water and off I went feeling pretty good, but taking it easy. Much better.Not sure if I bonked due to food, water, or a combination of the last 3 days energy expenditure. My guess is a probabaly all three. I had put in 3 hard days with the 38 miles the day before taking a final toll. Either way, when you bonk...you bonk and have to recoup before you go on.
At about the 18 mile mark,I was passing some women and kids beached with a boat and a jetski. They were out having a great day off with their kids and friends. As I was paddling by, they yelled to me to come over so over I went. They asked all the usual questions, gaveme a piece of the Colonel's best Fried Chicken and a cold bottle of water. Happy Happy Happy. Nice women too. Dawn, works for the State's School of Math and Science. There was also a school nurse, a landscaper and another working to be a teacher. It was great to just to sit there for 30 minutes and talk with them. They pointed me to the marina I was heading to and said it was a great place. Seems the burgers are great and the owners, Clif Yarborough and Rita are also first class. I pulled into the marina around 5 pm after only 22 miles. Don't think I wanted more either. The Waverly Marina is a cool little place tucked back in a cove away from the river channel. The first thing you see when you pull up is a vine covered Tiki Bar and restaraunt with cieling fans whirling and plenty of bar stools. All was true about Waverly. Clif and Rita let me sleep under the fans and recharge all my electronics. They also let me shower. Now, showers have been an unexpected treasure. This one was even better. A couple of Pittsburgh guys were bringing a boat up from Mobile to Pittsburgh. They were kind enough to let me have a razor so off went beard etc. Off it went partly due to the scrathy nature of it, but I have to admit, the grey/white was starting to outnumber the darker colors in it. Of course the main reason was the scratchyness.
Falling asleep at 9:30 was a wonderful feeling.
Today was one of the better days all around. First, made it through Stinson Lock. It was funny, they knew I was coming. Evidently, they faxed the lock yesterday to be on the look out for me. Also, when I pulled into the marina tonight, the owner looked at me and said, oh, your that kayaker. Evidently he's on the Tenn-Tomm Association and they emailed everyone that I was out there. Nice to know they are looking out for me too. Thirty-two miles and felt great. The first 20 was easy...the last 10 slow and hot. Again, met a family with kids getting ready for the 4th. They offered me a sandwich...I said no thanks, I'm ok. They offered again with more insistence and said I could take it to go. So, Ok, I took it. They threw in a yorgurt and a cold coke. Hard to refuse when people want to help out. The sandwiches were great. White bread, roast beef with mayo. The mayo and beef were cold, as was the coke. Ahhhhhhh. The yorgurt was a plus.
The river today was remote and one of the more scenic paddles. The banks were interspersed with small bluffs of clay and sand. Beaches of sand, or pea-size, redish brown gravel lined the shore. Not many houses, or industry through out the morning. Only 1 barge passed as well. Barges are great.They are very corteous as they pass. Hardly any wake by any of them. On the other hand, bass boats fly by without any regard. The big cruisers are mostly good to me. Most slow down as they pass, but a few go by and throw up a wake that I could do cartwheels on if I was in the right boat.
Also saw another bald eagle this morning. It flew off just as I turned and I saw the white tail. It decided to land in a tree about a hundred yards away. Managed a couple shots of it perched up,but the zoom has it's limits. Oh, Dawn and the girls from the day before say I'm definitely in gator country now. Being from Louisiana and having some experience paddling around them, I'm not worried,but will be careful. Mostly they will be in the backwaters and sloughs and not in the main channel. i looked hard today but didn't see any. I've seen many water snakes also, but no cottonmouths, or anything else like that.
Tonight, dinner of mac and cheese with little smokies and pudding. Haven't made it yet, but soon. Btw, most common questions so far? How do you go through the locks? Same as everyone else I tell them. Second most asked...how's your rear end? Doesn't it get sore? It's fine. The boat is very comfortable, but I also stop every few hours to stretch the legs. today, I was finished at 4, so only 11 hours in the boat today. I'll be getting up early to go through the locks at Aliceville, AL. Yep, I'm backin Alabama tonight with 300 miles to go and 10 days to get there.
Thanks to all for the comments on FB. I read them when I do email, but haven't had time,or connection to get on and do much else. They mean a lot and I really enjoy reading what all of you have to say about the journey, the writing and the project. kept expecting the doors to start swinging shut. If so, that would have meant another hour wait. I did not want to wait.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Better than I Thought








Here's a piece of advice. Never try to do math when you've been working hard in the hot sun, low on energy and in desperate need of sleep. Today I had to reassess my reassessment. My math was wrong. Last night, when I was trying to figure out how far I still had to go and how many miles per day I needed, I made one mistake. This trip is a month. Last night, a month was 28 days,or 4 weeks. Today, I realized that Susan is picking me up after a calendar month...Doh! So, that leaves 2 more days to figure in. Today, was a good day and I made 38 miles. That included 3 locks which was stellar. That leaves me with 12 days left and 28 miles a day to average. Much mre doable than the 34 a day I had worked out last night. A little over 350 miles to go in 12 days. I've made over a 100 in the last 3 days so give me some good weather...meaning cooler and less humid and I should get to Mobile on time.
Last night was spent at Midway Marina. Nice group there and I really enjoyed just hanging out and talking with them. If they're reading...thanks for making me feel welcome. The sunset last night was awe inspiring. God really knows how to end a good day on a high note. Enjoy the pics.
Today, up at 4:30, in the boat and 5 and through the first lock at 6, with the sun rising as I entered. The 3 locks today were really smooth. None of them had the high tie-offs and all went down with the water level. Even still, I was ready. Instead of a couple half hitches, I tied a bwline with a bight. If I needed to, all I had to do was pull on the end of the rope and off it came. No need to though,thank goodness. 14 hours later I pulled into Aberdeen Marina. Drank a Dr Pepper and made a couple phone calls. The marina isn't big, but has a convenience store and gas pumps alongside it. Speaking to the ladies behind the counter I asked about camping on the dock and explained the whole deal. They ahd to call the owners to see if it was ok. I thought, uh oh. No way would they let some stranger with some sort of story camp there. Once again I was surprised. The owner, Miss Susan, not only said ok, but let me stay on her screened in pontoon boat, had the ladies fix me a burger and fries and set me up with a fan. They later came in while I was eating and introduced themselves. Great folks once again. Kerrie, one of the women working there made sure Ihad everything I needed and helpe3d find the fan for me. Again, thanks. I've been blessed numerous times throughout this. It's sounding somewhat like a broken record. The eternal optomist in me is silently rejoicing that the world, no matter the media we hear, isn't all bad. We live in uncertain times right now, but one thing is for certain. Most people in our world are genuinely considerate, helpful and kind...no matter what you see in Atlanta traffic.
One last thing. I can tell I'm movcnig south. Saw my first White Heron today. Also, the water and surroundings are starting to get that lowland, swampy feel as you move away from the main channel and into the backwaters. Cypress knees and hydrilla floating by. I'm definitely not in the mountains any more.
One last work. Thanks to all who are commenting and messaging. I can't respond to all, but they are appreciated and mean a lot.
Nite